Monday, 28 June 2010

5 Regions in Australia You Should Know (if you pretend to know anything about wine)


ARGH. All this talk about boring, high-alcohol, industrial Australian wines. Usually by people who believe Australia is one large hydro-dam of Chardonnay. Yes, really. When I worked in Mayfair in London, someone actually asked me whether Australia has vintages. Someone who buys a lot of wine, and frankly, should have known better.

Sunday, 27 June 2010

Arthouse Loire 2009


Skillfully made but distinctly low budget, 2009 Loire is an excellent remedy to the high madness of 2009 Bordeaux primeurs. Forget Bordeaux. Everything under £10 in Loire in 2009 is good value. More than good, excellent value.

Tuesday, 22 June 2010

From wine to widget (or, my Bordeaux sulk in Rome)


The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes. – Marcel Proust

"What I don't understand," said my Roman friend as we walked through the ruins of the ancient city of Rome, "is how these high prices of Bordeaux wine (En Primeur) can be in the public good?"

Yesterday I was on holiday in Italy. Frankly, I needed a holiday. After waiting weeks for the big names of Bordeaux to release their wines, and just a torturous drip drip drip, I was officially in a Bordeaux sulk.

Monday, 14 June 2010

Lunch with Randall Grahm: Imagining Change



Imagine we live on a planet. Not our cozy, taken-for-granted earth, but a planet, a real one, with darkpoles and belching volcanoes and a heaving, corrosive sea, raked by winds, strafed by storms, scorched by heat. An inhospitable place. It’s a different place. A different planet. It needs a new name. Eaarth."

Environmentalist, Bill McKibben

To be honest, it took me a while to sit down and write this post after lunch with Randall Grahm from Bonny Doon vineyards. Why?

Monday, 7 June 2010

the blue wines of Tuscany


At first everything seemed fine, more than fine: from left to right, older terracotta-coloured wines from Chianti to the latest bright purple wines from the Tuscan coast of Maremma. The new 2006 Coevo sat in the middle: a perfectly balanced blend of two distinct regions, Chianti and Maremma. But then out came the Michelin-star Chef, Massimo Bottura, to introduce the food.

Tuesday, 1 June 2010

English Wine Week: Curiouser & Curiouser


Curiouser and Curiouser, said Alice in Wonderland, and she could equally be saying the same about English Wine. As it's English Wine Week (29th May - 6th June), let's go down the rabbit hole and find the English Wine bottle labelled DRINK ME.

Monday, 31 May 2010

The Problem with Pinot Grigio UK


Pinot Grigio found in the UK could almost be the perfect drink: it's plainer than water, it's nearly the same colour and it's not much more in price than a good bottle of sparkling... water.

Friday, 28 May 2010

Bazaar not Bizarre: Modern Turkish Wine



A mark of intelligence is how to answer stupid questions in a smart way. And before I went to this year's London International Wine Fair, I had many stupid questions about Turkish wine.

Let's start with the basics. Isn't Turkey Islamic? Are Islamic cultures allowed to make and sell alcohol? Is it going to be rough traditional wine that will give me headache? Can you buy wine in restaurants there? Where is this wine drunk? How do you even pronounce the grape? Is it even a grape or a style of wine?

Monday, 24 May 2010

Summer drink: Los Rebujitos



A good way to break up a hot afternoon sipping Sherry in the sunshine is to do what local Sevillianos do and make a Rebujito.

Thursday, 20 May 2010

White Grange and Nirvana


2007 Yattarna or 2008 Bin 08A Reserve Chardonnay?


Nirvana's Bleach came out in 1989 on a budget of only $600, a thrilling album-long demo tape for their huge next album, Nevermind. Bleach is sound unpolished to perfection. So why was it this album cover the first image to come to mind when tasting the 2007 Yattarna? There couldn't be anything more opposite. Yattarna is a wine polished to perfection. On a huge Penfold's budget. Bleach was the birth of grunge.

Tuesday, 11 May 2010

Rose 101 - Why drink Rosé?


Before I tell you about Bibendum's Rosé tasting last night, I have to admit: Rosé has a special place in my life. I won my first serious job after university by writing a sales letter on Rosé. Nobody wanted to touch it. The manager flicked it at me across his very large desk with a hopeless smirk, "see what you can do with this".

Sunday, 2 May 2010

Michael Broadbent on music and wine tasting


"What perhaps is needed is something approaching musical notation, for in many ways the problems are similar.

Sunday, 25 April 2010

Bordeaux En Primeur 2009 vs The Volcano

Ejafjallajokull may have told Europe to kiss it's ash during the week, but volcano or no volcano, the 2009 En Primeur show must go on.

Monday, 19 April 2010

Savennières: what's cool in wine right now

Sit up straight. Now pay attention. I’m not going to say this twice.Savennières commands. The Chenin Blanc from the region in the Loire, doesn’t care about being popular or relaxing in front of the television at the end of the day. Turn the television off, says this wine, this is going to be a serious conversation about ideas.

Friday, 16 April 2010

South African Chenin Blanc (Mullineux White): what's cool in wine right now


There's nothing really wrong with most Chenin Blanc from South Africa, it's usually a perfectly nice breezy linen shift of a wine to throw in your bag for the day at the beach. This couldn't be said about South African wine five to ten years ago, and for that reason alone, it has to be politely acknowledged that most South African wines have improved immensely. Well done.

Then you taste Mullineux White from Swartland, South Africa.

Tuesday, 13 April 2010

montepulciano d'abruzzo: what's cool in wine right now


From the elegant and svelte to the overextracted and black, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo comes in as many styles as towns in the Abruzzo region of central-eastern Italy. And as many degrees of quality.

Monday, 12 April 2010

vermentino di sardegna: what's cool in wine right now



Wines from southern Italy are absolutely huge right now. There are, of course, the Sicilian wines from Planeta, the incredible Barrua as well as anything from Campania. But unexpectedly one wine in particular, from Sardinia, has people spontaneously talking and coming back for more: it's Vermentino di Sardegna.

Just as Sardinia is a discrete, and somewhat rustic, place to take a luxury holiday, Vermentino di Sardegna has the same exotic yet quiet and relaxed feel.

The volcanic soils create a thrill of minerality (which gives it a sort of edgy wit that satisfies the intellect) while the Mediterranean warmth has given it a deeply sensual character (satisfying the body). Like a good holiday it seems to satisfy mind, body and soul.

And wallet. Like some other little known Italian grape varieties, Vermentino is very good value, too. Relaxing with a glass on a sunny afternoon is as comforting as finding a tax haven for the brain.

One glass and a slab of Pecorino Sardo cheese and it won't matter whether you are holed up on the North Pole, you are instantly on holidays in the Mediterranean.


what's cool in wine right now



Far from me to impose my tastes on you (!), this is a new series on what I observe people like to buy who seem to have taste at a premium in all aspects of their life. ie. they are pretty cool.

There's nothing scientific about it, other than intense everyday observation. It's more a Face Hunter snapshot on the street than a marketing document. If this was Grazia it'd be called: What's Hot in Wine! But the idea of hot wine makes me feel queasy. And winter is over.

Bring on summer already.

That's why first up is the very easy to drink, yet with an interesting savoury bite, an Italian white wine from Sardinia - Vermentino di Sardegna.


Monday, 5 April 2010

Ten wines to buy 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur

a beautiful dream...

Following on from my post En Primeur - five questions to ask before buying I'd like to share with you the list of 10 clarets I'd buy from Bordeaux 2009 En Primeur.*

Notice there are no first growths or fashionable names (Mouton, Lafite, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, Ausone etc). En Primeur on this level is more about obtaining the limited allocation rather than buying for long-term drinking. They have their own allocations and prices determined by their own market, which exists in another stratosphere.

This is a fantasy shop, but it's a realistic fantasy shop. There are a few cases in my list for around £200 - £240.

Without knowing the prices yet, nor the demand (will China be a huge presence in En Primeur buying this year, after all? The debate continues...) here is my fantasy shopping list of 2009 Bordeaux based on quality/value and good long-term drinking pleasure based on reports from last week at the En Primeur tasting.

So, let's go shopping!

Price Guide - expensive to value £££££ - £

1. Leoville Poyferre, St-Julien £££

2. Pontet Canet, Pauillac ££ - £££

3. Domaine de Chevalier, Graves £ - £££

4. Grand Puy Lacoste, Pauillac £££

5. Clos du Marquis, St-Julien £££ - ££££

6. Smith Havt Lafite, Graves ££

7. Haut Bailly, Graves ££

8. Calon Segur, St Estephe £££ - ££££

9. La Fleur Gazin, Pomerol £ - ££

10. Chateau Poujeaux, Moulis £


Image: Sofia Sanchez

* based on instant twitter updates from tasters attending the En Primeur tastings in Bordeaux


Friday, 2 April 2010

Why wine tastes better with music

"It is widely acknowledged within the scientific community that music affects behaviour, however this is the first time it has been scientifically proven that music can affect perception in other senses and change the way wine tastes.
The research showed that when a powerful, heavy piece of music is heard, a wine such as Cabernet Sauvignon is perceived as being 60 per cent more powerful, rich and robust than when no music is heard.

Now, back to practicing my cat dance on last night's empty bottles...


Link: Why wine tastes better with music