Leap into Luxury: Super-Tuscan 2007 Messorio from Le Macchiole

Some Super-Tuscans scream luxury but the 2007 Messorio from Le Macchiole is a quiet wine that opens before you as you taste it, to give the feeling of falling forward into space: like a confident step from a plane into silent velvety dark below, the fruit billows outwards on the palate like a slow-glide on a silk parachute. Afterwards the tongue is literally left frozen in shock from hundreds of tiny pin-pricks of acidity, which may sound bad, but tasting at this very young stage (en primeur/anteprima), it is only the tingle of expectation for a profound experience in the long-term.

The 2007 is considered a "tropical vintage" in Tuscany, which may explain the richness in the fruit, but this Merlot from Bolgheri has all the hallmarks of developing well and is completely and smoothly in balance. I long to see this wine, or any Messorio for that matter, with 10-15 years of bottle age. Even at Anteprima stage, I have no hesitation in recommending taking a self-assured leap.

Tasted at Lea & Sandeman Italian En Primeur tasting 30 March, 2011.

More: Antonio Galloni review of 1994-2006 (not 2007 vintage) "A Study in Greatness" (Robert Parker subscribers)

Image: Yves Klein, "Obsession de la levitation (Le Saut dans le vide)" Obsession with Levitation (Leap into the Void), 1960

Also posted on www.vinissima.net

Bordeaux En Primeur 2009 vs The Volcano

Ejafjallajokull may have told Europe to kiss it's ash during the week, but volcano or no volcano, the 2009 En Primeur show must go on.

Ten wines to buy 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur

a beautiful dream...

Following on from my post En Primeur - five questions to ask before buying I'd like to share with you the list of 10 clarets I'd buy from Bordeaux 2009 En Primeur.*

Notice there are no first growths or fashionable names (Mouton, Lafite, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, Ausone etc). En Primeur on this level is more about obtaining the limited allocation rather than buying for long-term drinking. They have their own allocations and prices determined by their own market, which exists in another stratosphere.

This is a fantasy shop, but it's a realistic fantasy shop. There are a few cases in my list for around £200 - £240.

Without knowing the prices yet, nor the demand (will China be a huge presence in En Primeur buying this year, after all? The debate continues...) here is my fantasy shopping list of 2009 Bordeaux based on quality/value and good long-term drinking pleasure based on reports from last week at the En Primeur tasting.

So, let's go shopping!

Price Guide - expensive to value £££££ - £

1. Leoville Poyferre, St-Julien £££

2. Pontet Canet, Pauillac ££ - £££

3. Domaine de Chevalier, Graves £ - £££

4. Grand Puy Lacoste, Pauillac £££

5. Clos du Marquis, St-Julien £££ - ££££

6. Smith Havt Lafite, Graves ££

7. Haut Bailly, Graves ££

8. Calon Segur, St Estephe £££ - ££££

9. La Fleur Gazin, Pomerol £ - ££

10. Chateau Poujeaux, Moulis £

Image: Sofia Sanchez

* based on instant twitter updates from tasters attending the En Primeur tastings in Bordeaux

Link: En Primeur - five questions to ask before you buy

Link: Bordeaux 2009 En Primeur - the dispatches, Dr Vino wine blog

En Primeur - five questions to ask before you buy

What is En Primeur?

En Primeur is the art of buying wine when it is still in cask before it is bottled. There is usually a two year wait before it is finally delivered, which happens shortly after the wine is bottled and shipped. After vintage, wine merchants and writers visit the Estates, Domaines or Chateau to assess the quality for their customers. This is when the campaign begins.

In the United States, buying wine En Primeur is known as Wine Futures, which is slightly more demystifying; it clearly links the buying of unbottled wine in cask to the concept of buying futures on the stockmarket. It's the same level of reward. And risk.

For those who don’t know much about Bordeaux, En Primeur can be on the trickier end of wine buying. For those who do, it can be a way to buy wine at a relatively low price which returns decades of enjoyment.

However, unlike other forms of investment, it’s a speculation you can eventually enjoy drinking. And if you do it right, you’ll always have quality wine on hand at a fraction of the future shelf price.

Right now, wine merchants are coming back with their report on the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux. Each year there will is a lot of hype between the facts; so, what do you look for when buying wine two years before it is bottled, often without having the chance to taste it?

Despite the very top Chateau bought on allocation (which means, only people who have a track record of buying Chateau such as Mouton-Rothschild etc are considered), there are still plenty of excellent buys to be found in Bordeaux. The question is how to pick wines right for you.

Five Questions to Ask

1. Are you buying from a reputable, solvent wine merchant who has a track history of delivering En Primeur?
2. Does this wine have the ability to age for at least 10 years (especially, Bordeaux)?
3. Is the base price reasonable enough to allow future growth in price?
4. Is this a good property but undervalued with respect to quality?
5. Is this one of the good to great vintages?

I remember one man at the Burgundy En Primeur in January wincing over an unbottled red, "At this stage," he said, "It's like children when they are young, you never really know how they will really turn out. And I've made some mistakes!" But he was still there again at the yearly tastings.

Apart from asking these 5 questions, I suggest starting with a Chateau you know and like, develop a relationship with your wine merchant over a period time and, most importantly, listen to your instincts!

Link: Ten wines to buy 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur