Outside the law: Burgundians Anne Gros and Jean-Paul Tollot's "Table Wine" from Minervois

It’s as if these two Burgundians have run away to the South of France and created something great for the village party. The name of the wine, La 50/50, refers to the winemakers partnership rather than the blend and Anne Gros asks on her website, "Is it love at first sight? Absolutely!"

There's a sunny joyness about this wine from South and a sort of recklessness that appeals: it has all the spicy richness of the Languedoc but with the weight and core minerality you expect from her Vosne-Romanee (the Minervois vineyard is at the same altitude as Gros' vineyards in Burgundy, although this does not explain the weight: I’d say the style has more to do with the deftness of the winemakers). A blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, it is labelled as Vin de Table, or the lowest classification, where it is illegal to show the vintage on the label – although they have, trickily, in the form of "Lot no: 2009".

All this rebellion put me in the mood for a good time. And a good time was had with a slow-cooked pork ragu and excellent company.

2009 La 50/50 Vin de Table Domaine Anne Gros et Jean-Paul Tollot Vin de Table, Minervois - £15.95 from Lea & Sandeman Notting Hill

Image: Gainsbourg and Bardot, Bonnie and Clyde

Languedoc Seduction: Domaine Peyre Rose Clos des Cistes 2002

While most Languedoc wines from the difficult vintage of 2002 had the taster asking, “How bad can you be?” This wine is like being in a secluded corner at a crowded party and whispering the same thing. Winemaker Marlene Soria has achieved a grand clandestine moment with 2002 Peyre Rose Clos des Cistes.

Perhaps the most intriguing thing about this wine is not the dramatic Mediterranean garrigue character, nor the resolutely non-berry style of the dark rose and golden figs, leather and slight bay-leaf menthol. It is the fleshiness given to this powerful, idiosyncratic voice from the South of France: a region where a lot of voices have yet to find out what they exactly want to say.

Compelled to find out more, I learned Soria stopped shipping to the US soon after gaining recognition in Wine Spectator as well as dumping the three previous vintages (1999, 2000, 2001) with the local wine co-operative due to taint from faulty enamel tanks. This, for a wine that easily commands over £60 a bottle.

I questioned whether I should write about the vinous equivalent of a one-night stand, one that you and I may never see again (it is found in the UK in seriously low quantities). Yet, weeks later, its mysterious voice and dramatic energy still lingers in the memory and shows just how great the Syrah blend from the Languedoc really can be.

Late Night Sessions: Pic St Loup, Bergerie de l’Hortus, Languedoc 2008

Home: Wolf Mountain, Mediterranean

Translation: Pic-St-Loup, South of France

Sound: Pick the Wolf, Howling

Honest: yes

Satisfying: yes

Traditional: A little

Need to eat: No

Not for: Thin Merlot lovers

Ideal with: Those born too late for cheap Rhone

Or: Poor Man's Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Or: Who cares? This is good.

Nerdy Fact: Leading AOC for quality in Languedoc S France

More: here

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UK Stockist Berry Bros & Rudd

Image: Rene Gruau