Outside the law: Burgundians Anne Gros and Jean-Paul Tollot's "Table Wine" from Minervois

It’s as if these two Burgundians have run away to the South of France and created something great for the village party. The name of the wine, La 50/50, refers to the winemakers partnership rather than the blend and Anne Gros asks on her website, "Is it love at first sight? Absolutely!"

There's a sunny joyness about this wine from South and a sort of recklessness that appeals: it has all the spicy richness of the Languedoc but with the weight and core minerality you expect from her Vosne-Romanee (the Minervois vineyard is at the same altitude as Gros' vineyards in Burgundy, although this does not explain the weight: I’d say the style has more to do with the deftness of the winemakers). A blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan, it is labelled as Vin de Table, or the lowest classification, where it is illegal to show the vintage on the label – although they have, trickily, in the form of "Lot no: 2009".

All this rebellion put me in the mood for a good time. And a good time was had with a slow-cooked pork ragu and excellent company.

2009 La 50/50 Vin de Table Domaine Anne Gros et Jean-Paul Tollot Vin de Table, Minervois - £15.95 from Lea & Sandeman Notting Hill

Image: Gainsbourg and Bardot, Bonnie and Clyde