waiting for Brunello di Montalcino 2004

I've been in the lush waiting room for what seems like forever.

The agony and the ecstasy!

I'm talking about the forthcoming release of the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino.

If you love Brunelli, you'll know what I'm talking about.

The 2004 vintage.

And maybe you'll even agree with me when I say Riserva Brunello di Montalcino has a strong semblance to a premier cru Burgundy from the Cote d'Or (even though of course, Brunello is made from Sangiovese and Burgundy is made from Pinot). At nearly half to two-thirds the price.

The best of both wines from these regions have an ethereal quality, sometimes a lighter rose colour, layers of complexity and elegance.

Although, to my mind, Brunello has a "savoury" character rather than the classic Burgundy "barnyard".

To give you an idea of what to expect, here is my tasting notes for the 2003 Poggio di Sotto (£69 per bottle), which is a 'lesser vintage' than 2004 (!) -

Infinite jest. Light in colour, light-bodied but also complex like a gymnast with an intricate ribbon routine (erm, yes I did write that!). Licorice, red cherry, white pepper and smooth balsamic notes with a deliciously tannic finish that becomes more refined over time. Want more and more. Where does the story go...? A revelation.

Another good thing about Brunello di Montalcino, especially en primeur Brunello (and most will be sold this way due to the high demand and the small boutique nature of the producers in Tuscany) is you know what to expect when you put in an order.

This is because the a part of the Brunello wine can be put aside for the Rosso di Montalcino,which is released soon after the vintage (from a year to 18 months afterwards). I guess it's a way for everyone to have something to drink, and sell, while the Brunelli is holding in oak for five years.

Hence all this salivation in anticipation.

What do I want to taste?

I am looking forward to tasting Brunello di Montalcino Riserva from Poggio di Sotto, Tenuta il Poggione, Salvioni and Livio Sassetti's Pertimali (if I can find it).

Like the equally anticipated vintage release of 2005 Bordeaux, these will be good to drink now as well as have excellent cellaring potential.

And, similar to the 2005 Bordeaux vintage, these boutique wines will be expensive. There's no doubt about it. And I'm not even factoring in the current strong Euro against the pound.

Link: Brunello di Montalcino

Link: on WWS Casanova di Nieri