Now, you may think, why Anne Gros? She is certainly not as outlandish as the previous two winemakers I have featured in Wine, Woman and Song's Eccentric Winemaker series.
This is true. She is from a historic Burgundian family stretching back to the 1830s, making wines in the blue-blooded part of Burgundy, Vosne-Romanée.
Yet, there is something unique about Anne Gros. To be an eccentric you must dance to the beat of your own drum. Anne Gros is certainly doing something different, right under the noses of the the old guard.
In an extremely traditional area such as Burgundy, even the most imperceptible tremors and changes result in huge waves.
Just look at her label. It's modern - blue! - no fancy script or complex descriptions of proprietors over the vineyard name. It clearly states the region and the Domaine name. How different it looks compared to the traditional Burgundy bottles.
To the wine itself: her wines are lightly filtered; unfashionable at the moment. They are unashamedly feminine. Arguably, most wines from Burgundy are perfumed, but her wines are even more like an eau de parfum on the wrist evolving over a long, slow day.
Do I have to say it, yes, she is a woman. In a man's world. I know how it feels to be often the only woman in the wine industry. It's weird. By default, it is unusual in itself to be a grand winemaker in a male industry.
However, French wine's great ambassadors traditionally have been women. Just look at Veuve Clicquot (widow Clicquot) and Lalou Bize-Leroy. It's important, yet, I don't want to emphasise it too much; then again, I don't think it should be totally dismissed, either.
All in all, amongst the rows of traditional Burgundy on the shelf, her blue-labelled wines stand out. Modern, idiosyncratic wines that tell a story - not only of the changing face of Burgundy, but also, her very interesting story - her wine - unfolding in your glass.
What you need to know
Name: Anne Gros
Winery: Domaine Anne Gros
Where: Estate in Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy, France
Stand outs: Bourgogne under £20 is difficult to come by; her Bourgogne is one of the best value wines in this difficult price range.
Wines: Concoeur (Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Rouge & Blanc); Vosne-Romanée Les Champs d'argent (Bourgogne, Rouge & Blanc), Les Glapigne (Bourgogne, Rouge & Blanc), Les Pasquiers (Bourgogne, Rouge & Blanc), Les Barreaux Le Richebourg Grand Cru; Flagey-Echezeaux, Echezeaux Grand Cru; Chambolle-Musigny, La Combe d'Orveau; Clos Vougeot, Le Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru.
Next post:
Pt 4: Lalou Bize Leroy, Burgundy
Previous posts:
Pt 2: Sparky Marquis and the Carnival of Love
Pt 1: Didier Dagueneau
Website: Domaine Anne Gros
No comments:
Post a Comment