Australian and French wine, vive la difference

Australia: smells like Teen Spirit

What's the difference? One’s good, one’s crap... Yes, a stupid answer; and yet, some UK critics think this is a sophisticated response. (Obviously, this is not my opinion).

French wines have terroir and Australian wines do not. Blah, blah. Can anyone say that with a straight face now after watching Michel Rolland in the documentary, Mondovino? Both countries have “flying winemakers” who consult across regions and countries. M. Rolland himself travels around the world re-creating the “Bordeaux style.”

Terroir is about how the character of the land shows in the glass. To say Australian wine has no terroir is really a backhanded way of saying Australian wine has no character. Ridiculous; unless you are only drinking wine with “little critter” labels. Maybe you have a point, but then if you are drinking those wines to the exclusion of all the other amazing regions in Australia are you really qualified to comment?

And have you seen the wines from Languedoc-Rousillon recently? More critters!

I can taste the sunshine and optimism in an Australian wine, especially next to a French wine. (That’s not necessarily something I value, but I think I can taste it in a blind tasting.) Unfortunately, in these days of globalisation, standardisation and micro-oxygenation, the differences between wine regions is not always apparent – even between the old and new world.

Vive la difference

Here's a little tasting I did recently comparing French and Australian wine style.

Chardonnay

Joseph Drouhin 2004 Saint-Veran $AU 28.95

A simple White Burgundy with pretty green glints. Still refreshing for a 2004 vintage, but not much longer to live. Enjoyed the darker tones of malolactic fermentation and oak; the fruity, flowery characters are more of an afterthought. Technically, nothing wrong, but a bit textbook. Good with a bowl of mussels.


Dorrien Estate Barossa Valley Chardonnay 2004
Compared to the White Burgundy this is a like an over-smiling idiot. I want to slap the fruit right out of the glass. A shame as Dorrien Estate is doing some interesting certified organic wines. This Chardy is now 3 years old. Was the fruit more amusing when it was younger? I’m bored of the willingness-to-please sunshine in a bottle, next.



Brunel Cailloux - Chateauneuf du Pape 2001
Like an Angus steak kept for 100 days before it is thrown on the hot plate. This has big fat meaty characters with a slightly bitter and astringent finish. This is not *fun * which makes it more exciting. A wine for the slightly bored.

M/g/s Yalumba Barossa Valley 2003
Now this is what Australia is good at – pure, streamlined fruit blended seamlessly. Like modern architecture where the corners are spherical, seamless, streamlined. Not sweet like most M/g/s. Cool label.

An aside, but worthwhile noting:

Nuits St-Georges, Les Vaucrains, 1er Cru $AU 138
This is a dark brooding red that I kept beside me for a few hours to see how it would change over time. It's one of those French Pinot Noir wines that can not be replicated and gives credence to the terroir concept. There is no happy fruit here, just long nights spent in a pool room smoking cigars on deep leather lounges. Complex layers of spice and earth with a strange touch of rose petal that comes as a surprise as this wine is anything but feminine. Captivating in the take no prisoners way. But watch out for Stockholm Syndrome - I was taken by my captor. The ruder and more astringent it became over time, the more I liked it.