Bordeaux En Primeur 2009 vs The Volcano

Ejafjallajokull may have told Europe to kiss it's ash during the week, but volcano or no volcano, the 2009 En Primeur show must go on.

Savennières: what's cool in wine right now

Sit up straight. Now pay attention. I’m not going to say this twice.Savennières commands. The Chenin Blanc from the region in the Loire, doesn’t care about being popular or relaxing in front of the television at the end of the day. Turn the television off, says this wine, this is going to be a serious conversation about ideas.

South African Chenin Blanc (Mullineux White): what's cool in wine right now

There's nothing really wrong with most Chenin Blanc from South Africa, it's usually a perfectly nice breezy linen shift of a wine to throw in your bag for the day at the beach. This couldn't be said about South African wine five to ten years ago, and for that reason alone, it has to be politely acknowledged that most South African wines have improved immensely. Well done.

Then you taste Mullineux White from Swartland, South Africa.

montepulciano d'abruzzo: what's cool in wine right now

From the elegant and svelte to the overextracted and black, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo comes in as many styles as towns in the Abruzzo region of central-eastern Italy. And as many degrees of quality.

vermentino di sardegna: what's cool in wine right now

Wines from southern Italy are absolutely huge right now. There are, of course, the Sicilian wines from Planeta, the incredible Barrua as well as anything from Campania. But unexpectedly one wine in particular, from Sardinia, has people spontaneously talking and coming back for more: it's Vermentino di Sardegna.

Just as Sardinia is a discrete, and somewhat rustic, place to take a luxury holiday, Vermentino di Sardegna has the same exotic yet quiet and relaxed feel.

The volcanic soils create a thrill of minerality (which gives it a sort of edgy wit that satisfies the intellect) while the Mediterranean warmth has given it a deeply sensual character (satisfying the body). Like a good holiday it seems to satisfy mind, body and soul.

And wallet. Like some other little known Italian grape varieties, Vermentino is very good value, too. Relaxing with a glass on a sunny afternoon is as comforting as finding a tax haven for the brain.

One glass and a slab of Pecorino Sardo cheese and it won't matter whether you are holed up on the North Pole, you are instantly on holidays in the Mediterranean.

what's cool in wine right now

Far from me to impose my tastes on you (!), this is a new series on what I observe people like to buy who seem to have taste at a premium in all aspects of their life. ie. they are pretty cool.

There's nothing scientific about it, other than intense everyday observation. It's more a Face Hunter snapshot on the street than a marketing document. If this was Grazia it'd be called: What's Hot in Wine! But the idea of hot wine makes me feel queasy. And winter is over.

Bring on summer already.

That's why first up is the very easy to drink, yet with an interesting savoury bite, an Italian white wine from Sardinia - Vermentino di Sardegna.

Ten wines to buy 2009 Bordeaux En Primeur

a beautiful dream...

Following on from my post En Primeur - five questions to ask before buying I'd like to share with you the list of 10 clarets I'd buy from Bordeaux 2009 En Primeur.*

Notice there are no first growths or fashionable names (Mouton, Lafite, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, Ausone etc). En Primeur on this level is more about obtaining the limited allocation rather than buying for long-term drinking. They have their own allocations and prices determined by their own market, which exists in another stratosphere.

This is a fantasy shop, but it's a realistic fantasy shop. There are a few cases in my list for around £200 - £240.

Without knowing the prices yet, nor the demand (will China be a huge presence in En Primeur buying this year, after all? The debate continues...) here is my fantasy shopping list of 2009 Bordeaux based on quality/value and good long-term drinking pleasure based on reports from last week at the En Primeur tasting.

So, let's go shopping!

Price Guide - expensive to value £££££ - £

1. Leoville Poyferre, St-Julien £££

2. Pontet Canet, Pauillac ££ - £££

3. Domaine de Chevalier, Graves £ - £££

4. Grand Puy Lacoste, Pauillac £££

5. Clos du Marquis, St-Julien £££ - ££££

6. Smith Havt Lafite, Graves ££

7. Haut Bailly, Graves ££

8. Calon Segur, St Estephe £££ - ££££

9. La Fleur Gazin, Pomerol £ - ££

10. Chateau Poujeaux, Moulis £

Image: Sofia Sanchez

* based on instant twitter updates from tasters attending the En Primeur tastings in Bordeaux

Link: En Primeur - five questions to ask before you buy

Link: Bordeaux 2009 En Primeur - the dispatches, Dr Vino wine blog

Why wine tastes better with music

"It is widely acknowledged within the scientific community that music affects behaviour, however this is the first time it has been scientifically proven that music can affect perception in other senses and change the way wine tastes.

The research showed that when a powerful, heavy piece of music is heard, a wine such as Cabernet Sauvignon is perceived as being 60 per cent more powerful, rich and robust than when no music is heard.

Now, back to practicing my cat dance on last night's empty bottles...


Link: Why wine tastes better with music