Monday 6 September 2010

Champagne, darkly: Blanc de Noirs


(Or, How to Have a Good Divorce Party. Advice to a Friend.)

"Dry your eyes, my friend. It's over. The white wedding may have been nice, the dress nice, all that money you spent on champagne on the day, sure, nice. But nothing, I repeat, nothing quickens the senses than pain. That’s why divorce parties can be the best parties: it’s a time to drink with INTENT and purpose.

See those vintage wines over there you were both investing for the future. They are good enough to drink now; there’s no need to wait. What else has been hidden in the cellar? Time to open up all these boxes…

This is the time to pull out the Blanc de Noirs Champange. Blanc de Noirs literally means white from black, which, even metaphorically, seems appropriate. Generally NV Champagne is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. A Blanc de Noirs is 100% Pinot Noir. It has a red fruit depth, sometimes described as a meatiness, somewhat similar in taste to vintage Champagne.

One of my favourites is from Egly-Ouriet Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vigne NV, but other excellent Blanc de Noirs are Pommery Wintertime and the very special vintage Bollinger, Ay Vieilles Vignes Francaises Blanc de Noirs.

One enjoyed recently is 100% Pinot Noir Secondé-Collard Blanc de Noirs Brut NV. It has the nose of a much more expensive Champagne, although one third the price of the Egly-Ouriet, with crunchy biscuity characters. The name is also appropriate, for it’s the right way to see divorce, or any significant relationship ending – as a second chance at your life. This is not the end; it is white from black, it’s a light at the end of the dark tunnel and it’s a time to mark a new beginning.

Let's raise our glasses to your freedom and an exciting future!"


Image: Jeanne Moureau

Thanks to @wine_scribbler for opportunity to taste NV Secondé-Collard provided by @NicksWine

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